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I spent three weeks in Peru, with a lot of that time in Cusco both before and after exploring the Sacred Valley and hiking the Inca Trail. I knew it would be beautiful, but I didn’t expect just how much there was to see and do within the city itself. Cusco is the kind of place that rewards you for lingering — a little history here, a bit of café culture there, and some of the best shopping I’ve ever done before Christmas.
Sitting high in the Peruvian Andes at 3,400 metres above sea level, Cusco was once the capital of the Inca Empire and remains one of the country’s cultural treasures. Its cobbled streets and colonial architecture are framed by mountains, with every turn revealing a new plaza, artisan shop… or llama.
The altitude can take a day or two to get used to, so go slow, drink coca tea if you can, and take plenty of breaks — thankfully, there’s no shortage of scenic spots to rest.
Table of Contents
When to visit Cusco
I visited in October when the days were pleasantly warm but you definitely needed a jacket in the evenings. The dry season (May to September) brings crisp, sunny days and cooler nights, making it ideal for sightseeing and hiking. The wet season (November to March) sees fewer tourists and more rain, but you’ll also get lush green landscapes and quieter attractions.
Where to stay in Cusco
Cusco has accommodation for every budget, from backpacker hostels to boutique hotels and luxurious 5-star stays.
I stayed at Casa Andina Premium Cusco on my first night, a lovely hotel with beautiful interiors, an incredible breakfast spread, and a relaxed 4-star vibe. I also spent a couple of nights at Hotel Cusco Plaza Saphy — nothing fancy, but very close to the main square and great for a short stay.
Other popular options include:
- Belmond Hotel Monasterio – A converted monastery offering a luxury experience in the heart of the city. I truly wish I could have stayed here!
- Tierra Viva Cusco Saphi Hotel – Stylish and mid-range with great reviews.
- Wild Rover Hostel – For budget travellers who want a lively atmosphere. I stayed in the Wild Rover in Huacachina and it was a vibe.
The best things to do in Cusco
Explore Cusco’s religious history
Cusco has an extraordinary concentration of churches and religious buildings, reflecting its mix of Inca heritage and Spanish colonial influence. The best way to explore them is with the Religious Circuit Ticket (around 50 soles), which grants entry to several major sites over the course of 10 days.
Three are in one place: Cusco Cathedral, Church of Triumph (Iglesia El Triunfo), and the Temple of the Holy Family (Templo de la Sagrada Familia). You can also visit the Church of San Cristóbal (Templo de San Cristóbal), the Church of San Blas (Iglesia de San Blas), and the Archiepiscopal Museum (Museo Arzobispal).
There’s also a separate Boleto Turístico (tourist ticket) that covers museums and archaeological sites in and around Cusco, including Sacsayhuamán, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay. If you’re staying a few days, it’s worth looking at both passes to see which best fits your itinerary.
Visit ancient ruins
Cusco is surrounded by fascinating archaeological sites from the Inca period. Some are right in town, others just a short taxi or bus ride away.
- Kusicancha Ruins – Right in the city centre, fascinating to wander through and picture life here centuries ago.
- Sacsayhuaman – Known to locals as ‘Sexy Woman’ because of how it’s pronounced. The most famous, with massive stone walls and incredible views of Cusco.
- Q’enqo – A ceremonial site with carved rock features and hidden passageways.
- Puka Pukara – A small but interesting fortress believed to be a military checkpoint.
- Qoricancha (Temple of the Sun) – Once the most important temple in the Inca Empire, later converted into the Santo Domingo Convent.
- Tambomachay – Known for its aqueducts and water channels, thought to be a site for ritual bathing.
- Pikillaqta – A pre-Inca site showcasing the Wari culture.
Stock up on souvenirs
Peru has some of the most talented artisans I’ve come across. From Lima to Cusco, I bought more gifts than in any other destination — so many that I ended up buying an extra holdall to bring it all home! Here’s some of the best things to buy:
- Chocolate – Try bars flavoured with Andean fruits or spices.
- Coffee – Grown in nearby regions, coffee is a must-buy from Peru.
- Knitwear – Sweaters, scarves, and hats made from sheep’s wool, alpaca, or the ultra-soft baby alpaca. Be careful when buying — genuine alpaca feels cold to the touch and is softer than sheep’s wool. Prices range from £20 to £400 depending on quality and where you shop. I recommend the Alpaca Factory Outlet and Textil Quechilia, a family-run weaving centre just outside Cusco.
I also bought tons of other bits in Cusco from fluffy toy llamas to sweatshirts. My favourite shops for crafts, clothing, and jewellery were:
- Illari Souveniers Andinos
- Pedazo de Arte
- KORA Galeria de Arte y Muebles
- Ekekos Arte & Colores
Enjoy Cusco’s café culture
One of my biggest surprises was how many excellent cafés Cusco has. They’re perfect for taking a break from sightseeing, enjoying a coffee, and getting your daily dose of fresh avocado. Some of the most popular are:
- Organika Bakery – A great place for any meal of the day and top tier cakes.
- Three Monkeys – Great coffee and a chilled vibe.
- Green Point – A popular plant-based spot.
- El Jardin – Lovely atmosphere and good for breakfast or lunch overlooking the square.
Explore San Pedro Market
A must-visit for a more local side of Cusco. This bustling market sells everything from fruit and spices to textiles and souvenirs. The fresh juice stalls are legendary, and it’s a great place to try exotic fruits you might never have seen before — think lucuma, granadilla, or chirimoya.
Take a cooking class
I sadly had to skip this because my altitude medication gave me serious blurred vision (a story for another time!), but the rest of my group raved about it. Cooking classes are a fantastic way to learn about Peruvian ingredients and techniques — from ceviche to lomo saltado. Many start with a market visit to pick up fresh produce before heading to the kitchen.
See the 12-angled stone
This famous Inca stone wall is tucked away on Hatunrumiyoc Street. The precision with which the 12-sided stone fits into the wall without mortar is a testament to Inca engineering. And it’s fun to try and find!
Meet local artisans
Cusco’s artisans are some of the most skilled you’ll find anywhere. I joined a day trip that included a pottery class, a traditional lunch, and a visit to a weaving centre. It’s not only a chance to shop for beautiful pieces but to learn the stories and techniques behind them.
Discover this ceramics workshop in Cusco.
Hike to a viewpoint
Cusco is even more magical when viewed from above. Some of the best spots are:
- Cristo Blanco – A towering white statue of Christ with panoramic city views.
- Mirador de San Blas – My personal favourite, especially at night when the city lights twinkle.
- Mirador de San Cristobal – Great for photos.
You can also get fantastic views from the Santo Domingo Bell Tower and Sacsayhuaman. Just note — even if you’re fit, the altitude will make you breathless, so take your time.
Get a massage before or after hiking
With so many treks starting or ending in Cusco, massages are big business here. They range from budget-friendly to high-end spa experiences. I had one at Casa Andina after travelling around Northern Peru and the Amazon, and it was just what I needed.
Find out more about my 3 week trip to Peru including a guide to Huacachina, the desert oasis.
