Salvation Mountain; the strangest place you’ll ever go

Considering the sheer size and assortment of characters in this world, I find it odd that I’ve not actually come across that many bizarre places on my travels. There’s been some humorous moments and weird finds that I’ll share at a later date, but not thaaaat many things that have made me go ‘WHAT THE ACTUAL F IS THAT?’.

Saying that, it occurred to me the other day as I was pondering this thought that I have been to one particularly landmark that challenged my inner artistic weirdo.

In the middle of the sun-scorched California desert, near the town of Niland at the edge of Slab City, sits one of the most unusual sights in the state — Salvation Mountain, a technicolour art installation that’s become a must-see on any road trip through the region. The area around it, known as Slab City, is often described as “the last free place in America” — a rough-and-ready off-grid community with no running water or electricity.

It’s a derelict abandoned area that is reminiscent of a zombie apocalypse. Trolleys wheeling in the non-existent breeze, a scuffling creature in a tin can… you can imagine that movie scene.

The Slabs is America’s uncontrolled land of freedom- there are no rules here. You won’t see much life among the concrete and rusting RVs apart from the odd group of squatters who live here either due to poverty or a craving for the off-the-grid lifestyle. Known as ‘snowbirds’ the town’s residents pack up their waste in the horrifically hot summer months only leaving the bravest or most unfortunate dwellers behind.

Despite sounding like most people’s hell on Earth, the community has come together to create their own library, social clubs and even a golf course where they hit balls between the flaming cars and squabbles.

But in the middle of the madness is Slab City’s famous attraction; Salvation Mountain. Created by the site’s most popular slabber, Leonard Knight, this now historical landmark is a sight for strange eyes.

Made of straw, adobe clay and any rubble Leonard could get his hands on, the mountainous piece of artwork is a gigantic bright treasure covered in over 100,000 gallons of lead free paint. Over 20 years, Leonard evolved his first failed mountain into the structure that has become a popular tourist attraction, living in his van and constantly adding new paths and declarations.

Why you ask? To make a ‘small statement’ about his undying love for God.

As a non-religious person in the traditional sense, I was a bit sceptical about the whole ‘Jesus loves you’ vibe of the place. But after twenty minutes of exploring strange corners (perhaps it was the break from the scorching sun), I felt like a character in Wonderland.

The word LOVE is everywhere you look, surrounded by bright painted flowers and magical patterned tunnels. A small concrete cave holds thousands of signatures, and letters of positivity and happy thoughts. As someone who likes to drink from a half-full cocktail glass, I was kind of enjoying Leonard’s crazy little home.

Yeah it was weird. But it was also immensely cool. You gotta respect a guy who spends an entire portion of his life making something so vast and colourful just because he believes in it.

It’s one of those places where you can let your imagination run wild — and if you’re planning a quirky California road trip, Salvation Mountain Slab City is easily one of the most memorable things to see in the California desert.

FAQs about visiting Salvation Mountain

Where is Salvation Mountain?

Salvation Mountain is located near the town of Niland in Southern California, about an hour east of Palm Springs and 90 minutes from Joshua Tree. It sits right on the edge of Slab City, a squatter community in the Colorado Desert.

Is Salvation Mountain free to visit?

Yes — Salvation Mountain is completely free. It’s open daily from sunrise to sunset, though volunteers appreciate donations of paint, brushes, or funds to help with ongoing preservation.

How do you get to Salvation Mountain?

The easiest way is to drive. From Palm Springs, take I-10 east, then Route 111 south toward Niland. From there, follow Main Street east — signs will point you toward Salvation Mountain and Slab City. There’s a dirt parking lot right at the site.

Can you bring paint to Salvation Mountain?

Yes — one of the best ways to support the site is to donate supplies like non-toxic, lead-free paint, paintbrushes, or funds. Volunteers use them to maintain the bright murals, which fade quickly in the desert sun.

What’s the best time to visit Salvation Mountain?

Early morning or late afternoon is best, especially in summer when midday temperatures soar above 100°F (38°C). The light is also softer for photography at these times.

Is Salvation Mountain safe?

Yes, the site itself is safe to visit and popular with road-trippers. Just be cautious in nearby Slab City, which is an off-grid community — stick to daylight visits and stay aware of your surroundings.

What else is near Salvation Mountain?

The Salton Sea is just a short drive away. Once a popular holiday resort, it’s now known for its eerie abandoned shoreline and birdlife. Many visitors pair a stop at Salvation Mountain with a drive along the Salton Sea for a full desert day trip.

Get more guides to the United States including the best ways to see the Grand Canyon and hiking the Yosemite Mist Trail.

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8 Responses

  1. I found this such a weird place when I visited the other year. Quite cool though, just not in the temperature sense – was 40C when I was there!

  2. Last year, I spent two nights in the Slabs with the art community at the end of the road, East Jesus. It’s such an amazing place and the people there are definitely something special. 😉

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Travel Between The Lines is an honest, thoughtful journal of adventures far and near. For those who love nothing more than to traverse the world between the comfort and calling of home.

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