Staying in the Amazon rainforest was the part of my Peru itinerary I was most excited about — and Sotupa Eco Lodge ended up being the highlight of my entire three-week trip.
From the moment I arrived, I knew this place was something special. Being on my own, sitting quietly on my terrace overlooking the Tambopata River, listening to birds, insects and the steady movement of the water, was one of the most serene moments I’ve ever experienced while travelling. It felt grounding, calming, and completely removed from everyday life.
I stayed at Sotupa Eco Lodge for four nights, flying from Lima to Puerto Maldonado before continuing on to Cusco. It was the perfect midpoint in my itinerary — a chance to slow down, immerse myself in nature, and experience the Amazon in a way that felt peaceful, personal and deeply memorable.
Getting there
Puerto Maldonado is one of the smallest airports I’ve ever landed in — you can spot your plane from the luggage carousel. After collecting my bag, I was met by a member of the Sotupa team and driven through the town to the lodge which sits on the banks of the Tambopata River, around 30 minutes from Puerto Maldonado. There are plenty of lodges deeper into the rainforest, but it being my first solo trip, I felt comfortable being remote without being too far from the town.
The lodge
Sotupa Eco Lodge is small, intimate and thoughtfully designed to blend into the rainforest, sitting quietly within its surroundings. There’s a central bar and restaurant area, a small swimming pool, and several relaxed communal spaces — including seating areas overlooking the river, where you can easily lose an hour watching boats drift past or listening to the sounds of the forest.
The staff are a huge part of what makes Sotupa so special. From the owner, Jean-Pierre, who welcomed me personally on my first evening, to Angela on reception and my guide Raúl, everyone was warm, attentive and genuinely kind. As a solo traveller, I felt especially looked after.
Raúl was an excellent guide — knowledgeable, patient, and generous with stories about growing up in Peru and life in the rainforest. Conversations felt natural and unforced, and it was clear how much pride the team takes in both the lodge and its surroundings.
Food and drinks
All meals are included during your stay, and the food was consistently excellent.
Breakfast is à la carte and generous, with fresh fruit, eggs cooked to order, omelettes, banana pancakes and strong Peruvian coffee. Lunch and dinner are three-course meals, often showcasing local dishes such as fish cooked in banana leaf and causa rellena — a vibrant layered dish made with seasoned yellow potato, lime, ají amarillo, avocado and chicken.
Desserts were equally good, from ice cream to poached pears, and drinks from the bar were very reasonably priced. If you head out on a day trip, the lodge provides a picnic lunch, such as rice, plantain and fruit.
Other things to note; you can bring your own wine or spirits for a corkage fee, and snacks can’t be stored in rooms due to wildlife — but they’re easy to access from reception whenever you need them.
Accommodation
I stayed in a Superior Bungalow, which came with a private terrace overlooking the river — and that terrace quickly became my favourite spot in the entire Amazon. Sitting out there with a book (or more often, just watching the water) was pure Eat-Pray-Love energy.
The elevated wooden lodges are beautifully done, with comfortable queen or twin beds, seating areas, fans and built-in mosquito nets. The bathrooms were surprisingly spacious, with excellent warm showers — although I often turned mine to cold to cool off!
The beds were incredibly comfortable, and I slept brilliantly to the sound of the forest. I had only one unexpected visitor — a very large moth that kept thudding into my bed – but I managed to be brave and get it into a glass. A tiny frog also appeared on my door handle one evening, which the manager calmly removed and thanked me for asking as touching them can damage their skin if you’re not careful.
Activities at Sotupa Eco Lodge
There’s an impressive range of activities included with your stay, all run by the lodge team.
We started with an introductory nature walk around the lodge’s trails, learning about tree species, insects and birdlife. One evening, I also joined a night boat ride along the river to spot caiman — an amazing, eerie experience with eyes glinting in the torchlight.
Another highlight was kayaking down the river to a nearby sandbank before boating back. I did this alone with members of the lodge team, chatting, laughing and watching them casually swim in the river while I stayed safely on the sands!
An early morning visit to the nearby clay lick was also included, where parrots and macaws noisily gather at dawn to eat before flying off together.
There’s also a night walk available for spotting snakes and spiders, though I gave that one a miss.
Optional excursions: Lake Sandoval and beyond
One optional activity I was desperate to do was a day trip to Lake Sandoval, which sits deeper in the Amazon and offers incredible wildlife-spotting opportunities. Thankfully, two other guests wanted to join, bringing the cost down to around £70 per person.
The trip involved a short drive, a river taxi along the Amazon, and an hour-long walk on raised paths through the rainforest, spotting monkeys, lizards, tarantulas and giant trees along the way. After a quick refreshment stop, we paddled across the lake by canoe, where we saw caiman, monkeys, countless birds and a family of giant river otters eating and squeaking along the shore, a rare sighting I’m so honoured to have seen.
Nearby, you can also visit the Amazon Shelter, a wildlife rehabilitation and release centre run by animal activist Magali Salinas. I went with two other guests and had a personal tour with Magali herself, learning the stories behind each animal and the long process of rehabilitation. It was a wonderful way to support a local project and meet sloths and monkeys along the way.
When to go and what to expect from the climate
I visited in October, just outside peak season. The weather was mostly sunny, with only one day of rain at the very end of my stay. Temperatures were consistently warm.
The heat and humidity do hit you when you first arrive, especially if you’re coming from cooler climates, but you adapt quickly. Mornings and evenings were the most comfortable, while afternoons were noticeably more humid. I often retreated to my room during the hottest part of the day, sitting on the bed with the fan pointed directly at me and a cold drink in hand!
Light, breathable clothing is essential, and the slower pace of lodge life makes the climate much easier to handle.
Cost and final thoughts
My four-night stay at Sotupa Eco Lodge cost $881, including accommodation, all meals and onsite activities. While there are cheaper Amazon lodges available, few strike the balance between comfort, atmosphere and location.
You can find out more and book your stay at Booking.com, Expedia, or Hotels.com. Or book directly here.
Sotupa Eco Lodge gave me something I didn’t even realise I needed — time to be still, present and connected to nature. Sitting alone on that terrace, listening to the rainforest breathe around me, remains one of the calmest moments of my travels.
I’d return in a heartbeat — if only to sit by the river again, fan humming softly, watching the Amazon drift past.
Read more about my trip including my 3 week itinerary for Peru, top things to do in Cusco and guide to Huacachina.
