Exploring Varosliget; Budapest’s City Park

1. Varosliget City Park entrance

The entrance to Varosliget begins at Heroes’ Square, a World Heritage Site that was built in 1896 to commemorate the thousandth anniversary of Hungary. A 36 metre tall column is topped by the archangel Gabriel whilst a crescent monument holds seven bronze statues, each representing a chief of the Magyar tribes. 

The square is framed by two beautiful buildings, the Museum of Fines Arts and the Kunsthalle (Hall of Art). Both of which are worth a visit too.

2. Vajdahunyad Castle

As we crossed into the park we were drawn in by the sights of the Vajdahunyad Castle, a striking, peculiar assortment of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture. Here I fell in love with Budapest’s architecture. Created as a replica of its Transylvanian twin in 1896, the castle enticed us closer to explore its courtyard and towering buildings.

Walking through the gated arch, my inner child was reminded of the Beauty and the Beast castle, before it was transformed back to its beautiful self. Delicately sculpted figures donned every point of the grey and toffee coloured buildings.

As we tried to imagine what secrets lay behind its walls, we ventured further into the grounds coming across a sinister looking statue.

The black hooded man Anonymus, as he is fittingly called, sat in the middle of the courtyard, like a death eater frozen in time.

4. Go ice skating on Lake Varosligeti

Surrounding the castle was a thin lake of frozen waters. Used for boating in the summer it plays host to impressive skaters gliding across the rink in winter. An older couple practising their professional moves immediately caught my romantic self’s attention.

5. Robinson Restaurant

Walking back over the bridge we made our way to our lunch spot. Sitting on the edge of the river is Robinson, a popular terrace restaurant that has attracted many famous names over the years from Schwarzenegger to David Bowie.

The interiors are open and informal, a wide panoramic window looking out onto the waters beneath. We were lucky enough to reserve a corner table by the glass, watching the birds dip and swim as we tucked into our meal

Cosy inside, we decided on two warming pasta dishes, Allyn ordering a spaghetti bolognaise and a creamy beef truffle linguine for myself. Both were generous in size and as pretty as they were delicious.

I was also served a glass of Hungarian red wine to accompany my pasta, recommended by the restaurant sommelier who matched my choice to my lunch. It was a fantastic red that I hope to find in the UK.

Comforted with our warm meal, we made our way back out into the cold, not without appreciating the restaurant’s book Christmas tree first!

6. Szechenyi Thermal Spa

A short walk from the waters is the famous Szechenyi Thermal Spa, an inviting warm building that pours steam from its hot outdoor baths.

32 degree waters flow from two natural springs into the romantic atmosphere of the spa, built in the early 1900s. Allyn and I hired a private cabin (just big enough for two) to change before we held our breath and quickly stepped into the freezing cold air.

Stepping into the boiling pools was a dream. We instantly relaxed, floating around and bobbing along for a good hour! You can stay in the spas for up to 2 hours or longer if you wish, but an hour felt long enough for me.

During our stay the skies darkening as the hot steam rose, creating a mystical surrounding. It was the perfect way to finish our day in the park as we quickly put on our layers upon layers to wrap up and make our way back to the Corinthia hotel.

Save money by booking tickets online for Szechenyi Spa

There’s quite a few other things to do in Varosliget City Park other than what we got up to. Here’s just a few!

7. House of Music Hungary

If you walk deeper into the park, you’ll stumble across the shimmering, gold-roofed House of Music. Its wave-like ceiling and glass walls are a spectacle in themselves, but step inside and you’ll find an immersive museum, exhibition spaces and concert halls all dedicated to sound. Whether you wander through the permanent exhibition or sit in the forest-like courtyard listening to a live performance, it’s a calming and curious stop.

8. Museum of Ethnography

Next door is one of Budapest’s most striking new buildings. The Museum of Ethnography is part-mirror, part-grass roof, and entirely unlike anything else in the park. It’s home to hundreds of thousands of objects from Hungarian and international folk cultures. Even if you don’t go inside, the rooftop walkway offers views back across the park from a different perspective.

9. Walk through the rose garden

A quieter corner of Varosliget lies just beyond the museums. Here you’ll find the Rose Garden, a landscaped space that comes alive with colour in spring and summer. It’s a lovely spot to take a breather from sightseeing or to rest your legs beneath the shade of a tree.

10. Visit the Budapest Zoo and Botanical Garden

One of the oldest zoos in the world sits on the edge of the park, blending Art Nouveau architecture with hundreds of species of animals and plants. The Budapest Zoo has a historic charm, with original buildings from the early 1900s and winding paths through leafy enclosures. Great for families or anyone after a slower-paced afternoon.

11. Relax by the music fountain

Close to the boating lake is a music fountain that quietly plays classical compositions at timed intervals. The area around it is dotted with benches and flowerbeds, making it a pleasant place to pause and watch the world go by.